We headed over to the information spot, Erratic rock, a hostel that gives a long talk about trekking through Torres del Paine. There are a few options, the most popular ones being the 'W', a very easy 4 day trek, or the 'Circuito', an 8 day moderate (to demanding in places) trek. We chose the latter, got our shopping done, our equipment packed, and boots laced up and arrived at the start of the trek at Lago Armaga. After checking in with the local rangers, day one consisted of alot of rain, low clouds and familiarisation of our big backpacks for long days. It was a pretty easy start through sparce vegetation with signs of the remnants of the 2005 forest fires (started by campers knocking over a cooking stove and as a result, they have built shelters in which you must cook your food when camping to prevent fires.) At the first campsite 'campmento' we started meeting the group of people also doing the circuit, who we got to know over the next week. Day 2 cleared up considerably and we had clear views over the rear side of the famous 'Towers' or 'Torres'. After some climbing, we enjoyed views over several emerald lakes, a nice way to enjoy your soup and crackers for lunch. The walk led us to what has been the best campsite of the holiday so far, campmento/refugio Dickson, which resides under a glaciar and by Lago Dickson, very scenic indeed! Our tent faced out onto the snowcapped mountains, a nice view to wake up to in the morning, and a minutes walk to the glacial lake behind us (just had to avoid stepping in all the horse manure on the way!) Before we even had our pasta meal, our gluttony got the better of us as we shovelled down half our ration of chocolate for the week! Later on on the trek we would regret this as we had to top up with a £5 bar of chocolate ouch. Poor Gordie celebrated a rather dry St Patrick's Day and had to watch on as the Canadian/Irish couple guzzled down a litre of Gato wine next to our tent. That evening we started mingling with the others, we call the 'circuit chicos', and Susan was really happy to have a luke warm shower in a portable hut (note Susan had 2 showers in 8 days, and Gordon had one and smelt pretty!)
Day 3 was an easy stroll of about 4 hours from Refugio Dickson to Campento Los Perros. On approaching the campsite, we emerged from the forest to be greeted by scree slopes and a monstrous wind as we progressed up to Glacier Los Perros. This was our first taste of 'knock-you- over' style wind as we braced rocks and propped ourselves up with branch walking sticks. We finally found Campento Los Perros hidden in a small forest, perfectly sheltered from the hammering wind. The one thing that we said we would kill for as we were walking that day was a snickers bar... Low and behold, the Campento stocked them. 8000 chilean pesos laters (£11), we had a stock of 8 snicker bars. The best tasting ones we have ever had! We stuffed our fat little faces with not 1, not 2 but 3 bars each and reluctantly held onto one each for the next day's crossing of the pass, which we knew would be the trickiest and hardest part of the trek. That evening we cooked our, yes pasta meal in a makeshift camping shelter of galvanised tin and coal bag fabric. Gordon went out to chop some wood from the forest to get the oil barrel burner going in the shelter and all the circuito chicos were excited about the prospect of warmed boots, until someone decided it would be a good idea to ignite the fire with brine remains from his tuna fish tin...no fire tonight, folks.
We didn't realise how long day 4 was going to be when we woke up that morning. We got an early start to beat the weather and cross the pass that morning. This is notoriously tricky if you get a strong breeze and you can experience 4 season weather up there: sun, wind, rain and snow. We were very lucky, the gradual slope up to the pass was pretty windless and after a very steep slog just before the pass crest, we arrived greeted by 40-50km winds and amazing Glacier Grey that stretched beyond the eye's limit. With our large backpacks, you had to brace yourself every time you turned for fear of being swept off your feet. (Susan was lucky when Andy from the circuit gave her one of his walking poles for support.) Worth it though! We enjoyed our snicker treat with Andy and Adam behind a make-shift rock wall before taking some photos and making our way down the west side of the pass. The circuit is typically done counter clockwise and we could see why on the descent. We meandered down the scree slopes for about 30 minutes before arriving at a forest that would punish our knees and legs. Each step was anywhere from 1-2 feet in height and that really took it out of us. Killer. We managed to find a nice tree trunk to re-energise with soup, tea, chocolate, crackers and peanuts before continuing down the steps, knees really starting to ache from the weight on our backs. Our aim was to make it to the second free campsite after the pass, but once we had bumped into an Austrailian outfit who were making a day trek to the pass from Refugio Grey (the newest refugio in the park) had told us about the hot showers, kiosk and wine, we were on a mission to Refugio Grey. We traversed a few hundered meters up on the slopes overlooking Glacier Grey with a few ladders chucked in for good measure to clamber up and down some deep ravines. Susan managed to clamber down with ease given her vertigo and we arrived at Refugio Grey SHATTERED, 10 hours later! Being a really busy, popular campsite, our choice of tent pitches were limited and we were rather exposed. As we erected the tent, a gust caught it and broke one of the metal sleeves to connect the poles. A quick repair (that was broken by the following morning) we set about the food and wine. Plenty of singing (French songs), chatting and vino later, we hit the sack and slept like babies until...the tent collapsed on us half way through the night. We (Gordon at least, Susan refused to wake up!) awoke nice and early to quickly pack up the tent before it completely flew away. Luckily we borrowed a repair kit from the group so we could continue camping (refugios are really expensive.)
Day 5 was a 5 hour wet and windy slog to campmento Italiano through the most recently burnt out area of the park (an Israeli camper lit his loo paper and that is how it started!) We arrived at the root of the leg into the 'French Valley' where we spent day 6, relaxing, reading and enjoying the ampitheatre-like views in perfect weather, our favourite day of the trek. Day 7 took us to the 'pinnacle' of the trek, the 'Torres', the famous symbols of Torres Del Paine, which we saw at sunset and luckily only had to share the spectacular view with 5 other people. Most choose to wake up at 5am and catch it at sunrise (Gordon being one of the mugs!), but we were fortunate to get a good sunset as the sunrise was non existant and Susan was smirking as she lay in bed for an extra 2 hours! Once Gordon returned we had porridge (with the added bonus of saltanas), agreed a meeting place for a celebratory meal with our fellow circuito chicos later that evening, and then retreated to refugio Los Torres to get our bus back to Puerto Natales.
We wrapped up del Paine by devouring kilos of chips, pizzas, drinks (Pisco Sours, the typical Chilean cocktail), ice cream brownies, not a care in the world about the calories! (This was repeated the following night!)
Next Stop: Mount Fitz Roy.
Hasta pronto chicos!
Day 1 ready for the Torres circuit
The view from our tent at Refugio Dickson
Glacial lake at Refugio Dickson
Refugio/campmento Dickson
Dickson's perfect setting
View from our tent
Susan ready for day 3
Mmmmm SNIICKER time!
Aussie Andy joined us to cross the pass
Upwards towards the chill of the glaciar
Nearly up the pass wearing 3 layers, it was ICY!
Andy nearing the top of the pass
Glaciar Grey beckons
Gordon at the top of the pass greeting Glaciar Grey in the background
Susan battling the high winds
Breathtaking
Had to climb up and down several high ladders (hard to see in picture) to get to Refugio Grey
Glacier Grey creeping along
French Valley, day 6
Gordon and the three amigos. 'Frenchie' as they nicknamed him (the middle one) seemed to know a load of Irish songs that his English teacher taught him in school, stating it would come in use one day...it did
Some more circuito chicos
French Valley
Airing boots stand back!!
Susan with brother and sister travellers, Bear and Wendy
Reading the kindle in the French Valley
Departing early on day 7
Gauchos prepare the horses for clearing out one of the refugios. Most of the logistics in the park are by horse as some of the more northern camps have not vehicle access
The three towers 'Torres' looming over the lake
Day 8, finally finished.
Guanacos
Adam and Heath enjoying a well earned drink.
Post trek meal
The three towers 'Torres' looming over the lake
Day 8, finally finished.
Guanacos
Adam and Heath enjoying a well earned drink.
Post trek meal